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Route Selection

"If you want the big rewards, you gotta tackle the hard problems. If not, well, I hear there's a good climbing game you can play on your computer."    — Lord Slime.

Here's a selection of the best routes we've climbed, those I've featured on my site, super classics, routes that scared me enough that I want to warn others, good memories, hard summits, bailed climbs I have yet to finish, firsts ascents... Click on the first row to sort the table by various methods. The grades are expressed in whatever system is used locally:

Those grading systems should be familiar to most climbers. As for the Alaska scale or the NZ scale, who knows...? A few of the grades I gave from memory, so they might not be too accurate, others are purposefully different from the guidebooks (particularly for ice).

Personally I think there aren't any 'boring' routes. Either something is dangerous and no one should go on it, or it's as good as a good day of climbing can be. So I gave a personal opinion on those routes, in the form:

***
better than a night with a top model,
**
worth leaving early in the morning while the family ain't watching,
*
better than a day at work or watching TV,
0
there be daemons.

There are a few other abbreviations in this list:

FA
First ascent
SA
Solo ascent
FSA
First solo ascent...

Pass the mouse above the route descriptions to see a picture (if available). Just reload the page if you want to hide all the pictures. Click on the images to view the content of the corresponding CD of images.




AlaskaDenaliWest RidgeMountainPD1995/06*Crowded and rather flat. Rather boring.
AlaskaHunterWest RidgeMountainD1995/07**Varied and steep.
AlaskaPrindleThe CherryTrad5.9 III1995/08*FA on licheny rock.
AntarcticaIcebergsAnyIceAI41993/09*Nice pictures but the very worst ice in the world.
ArizonaCochise StrongholdWelcome to the machineSport5.10 III2003/12**A good route, all bolted (only take one 2 cam) and easier than its grade.
ArizonaGranite MountainDislocation directTrad5.6 II2002/12**Very nice route for a beginning trad leader. Solo.
ArizonaGranite MountainWaterstreak DelightTrad5.10 III2003/11**Tiny flakes on 1st two pitches, followed by amazingly airy hand traverse under roof. Dangerous for the second.
ArizonaMnt LemonChimney RockTradMostly 5.102003/11**Several interesting long pitches on large grain granite.
ArizonaThe MaceEast face - regular routeTrad5.9 III2001/12**Nice tower and impressive step to reach the summit.
BriançonLocal cliffsVariousTrad/SportVarious2004*Lots of stuff, good for local climbing, almost all season.
BriançonMeijeEpinards HallucinogènesTrad/Sport6b ED-1996***High altitude, sustained climbing and long route.
BriançonTête d'Aval de MontbrisonVoie KelleTrad/Sport7a1991**A friend's route, a bit uneven.
BriançonÉcrins - Pic sans nomAurore NucléaireTradED2004*Great settings, not very sustained, dangerous start and lot of loose rock for the rappel.
BriançonÉcrins - SagnetteSoleil glacialSportTD2004***Excellent sustained multipitch climbing with short approach.
BriançonÉcrins - SialouzeAttaque à main arméeTrad/SportED2004**Great rock, great view, great route but long approach and still crowded.
BriançonAilefroide - PalavarLa voie des maitresTrad/SportED2004**Nice route with short approach, some very cruxy moves.
BriançonAilefroide - PalavarLa vie devant soiTrad/SportTD+2004**Just a few hard moves.
BriançonAilefroide - EboulementDerborenceSportED-2004**A great crack pitch.
BriançonAilefroide - RiouLa mèche fataleSportED-2004**Short approach and a couple good moves.
BriançonCerces - Tour TermierMarmotta impazzitaSportED2004**Don't remember.
BriançonCerces - Tête colombeEncore du DéversSportED2004**Very sustained from the start to the end.
BriançonCerces - Rocher RobertSpit mugissantSportTD2004**Interesting but not very long.
BriançonCerces - 3eme tour de QueyrellinLes dents de CirielleSportED2004**Some excellent and very sustained pitches.
BriançonTenailles de MontbrisonVariousSportTD/ED2004**Several excellent and similar routes, most of them well bolted.
CalabriaPolinoNew routesTrad6a/b II1999/07*Some FA on virgin limestone.
CaliforniaJoshua TreeVariousTradPlenty2003/11**Plenty of nice routes but far from each others, so it's hard to do more than 4~5 pitches per day.
CaliforniaLake TahoeEagle Lake CliffTrad5.10 mostly2003/07*Some very nice trad lines in a sport climbing setting.
CaliforniaLover's LeapHospital CornerTrad5.10a2003/07*Nice dihedral.
CaliforniaLover's LeapThe GrooveTrad5.82003/07*Nice wake up with the shortest approach possible.
CaliforniaLover's LeapTraveler's buttressTrad5.92003/07*Nice exposed route.
CaliforniaNeedlesAiry InterludeTrad5.10a II2003/10**Exposed hand traverse.
CaliforniaNeedlesThin IceTrad5.10b II2003/10**Beautiful area away from the crowds, Yosemite-like cracks.
CaliforniaSugarloafVariousTradVarious2003/07**Some excellent lines but we couldn't do the upper pitches due to excess wind.
CaliforniaSuicideVariousTrad5.102003/11**Great rock, a bit runout.
CaliforniaTahquizOpen BookTrad5.92003/11*A Royal Robins route, so expect it to be hard for the grade...
CaliforniaTuolumneFairview Dome - Lucky StreaksTrad5.10d III2003/08**Sustained on smooth knobs, interesting.
CaliforniaTuolumneFairview Dome - Reguler RouteTrad5.9 III2003/07*One or two interesting pitches only, too crowded and polished at the base.
ChamonixArgentièrePetit VikingMixedAI3 III1991/01*Long approach and still crowded.
ChamonixDent du GéantNormal routeMountain4+ D1998/08**Incredibly crowded by totally deficient 'climbers'.
ChamonixMt BlancPilier Central du FreneyMountain6b ED1998/08***Mythical highest rock route on Mt Blanc, very steep and varied. Quite a testpiece.
ColoradoBlack CanyonScenic CruiseTrad5.10+ V2002/09***Long and incredibly sustained, routes don't come any better than this.
ColoradoBoulder - Third FlatironStandard East FaceTrad5.4 II2002/11*Too boring if you can lead above 5.4, too runnout if you cannot.
ColoradoBreckenridgeLincoln FallsIceWI32002/02**Lots of possibilities, crowded.
ColoradoClimbingShelf RoadSportVarious2002/01*Main limestone area in Colorado, plenty of stuff.
ColoradoEldorado CanyonGreen SpurTrad5.9 II2001/08**Not as crowded as the Yellow one.
ColoradoEldorado CanyonNaked EdgeTrad5.11a III2003/12*Crowded, way harder than the grade, some dicey pro, all polished and overall I didn't enjoy it.
ColoradoEldorado CanyonYellow SpurTrad5.9 III2001/08**Good but crowded.
ColoradoFort CollinsBoulderingBoulderVarious2002/01*Used to be better but most of it is now destroyed or off-limits until they reopen the dams.
ColoradoGarden of the GodsMiscSportVarious2001/05*Scary soft sandy rock but magical settings.
ColoradoMt ElbertNormalSkiMSA2002/04*Late spring slush on the highest summit of Colorado.
ColoradoOurayHorsetail fallsIceWI4 II2002/01**Longer than the Ice Park.
ColoradoRMNP - HalletCulp-BossierTrad5.8 III2002/01**Good long route.
ColoradoRMNP - Loch ValeMixed FeelingsMixedM52000/12**Single hard pitch with easier stuff nearby.
ColoradoRMNP - Longs PeakCasual RouteTrad5.10 IV2002/02***Visible from the entire Front Range and well worth the drooling: steep, intimidating, long, high up, a long way from the parking lot...
ColoradoRMNP - Longs PeakFields ChimneyTrad5.82002/02 0Heinous mistake.
ColoradoRMNP - Longs PeakKiener'sTrad5.4 III2001/08*From Broadway to the top of Longs Peak.
ColoradoRMNP - Longs PeakLambs SlideMountainII AI22002/06*Snow/ice gully that gets you to Broadway, worth doing in good conditions.
ColoradoRMNP - Longs PeakStetner's LedgesTrad5.7+ II2001/08**Nice way to get to Broadway, watch for rockfalls on the right.
ColoradoRMNP - Lumpy RidgeMainlinerTrad5.92001/09**Classic of Sundance.
ColoradoRMNP - Lumpy RidgeSidetrackTrad5.92001/09**Just left and better than Mainliner, more sustained and runout.
ColoradoRMNP - Lumpy RidgeThe NoseTrad5.10a2002/04**Interesting.
ColoradoRMNP - Lumpy RidgeTurn KornerTrad5.10a2002/10**Offwidth not as bad as its reputation.
ColoradoRMNP - Mt AliceCentral RampTrad5.8 III2002/07**Remote good route.
ColoradoRMNP - Petit GréponWestTrad5.9 III2002/01**Crowded.
ColoradoRMNP - SpearheadSyke-SicleTrad5.9+ III2002/01**Flaky.
ColoradoRMNPAll Mixed upIceAI3 M32002/01**Easy if good conditions.
ColoradoRMNPGrace FallsIceAI42002/01**Nice playground.
ColoradoRMNPWest GullyIceAI32002/01**Long approach for a short easy climb.