Text and pictures © 1990-2008 Guillaume Dargaud
Last updated on 2008/04/14
"If you want the big rewards, you gotta tackle the hard problems. If not, well, I hear there's a good climbing game you can play on your computer." — Lord Slime.
Here's a selection of the best routes we've climbed, those I've featured on my site, super classics, routes that scared me enough that I want to warn others, good memories, hard summits, bailed climbs I have yet to finish, firsts ascents... Click on the first row to sort the table by various methods. The grades are expressed in whatever system is used locally:
Those grading systems should be familiar to most climbers. As for the Alaska scale or the NZ scale, who knows...? A few of the grades I gave from memory, so they might not be too accurate, others are purposefully different from the guidebooks (particularly for ice).
Personally I think there aren't any 'boring' routes. Either something is dangerous and no one should go on it, or it's as good as a good day of climbing can be. So I gave a personal opinion on those routes, in the form:
There are a few other abbreviations in this list:
Pass the mouse above the route descriptions to see a picture (if available). Just reload the page if you want to hide all the pictures. Click on the images to view the content of the corresponding CD of images.
| Alaska | Denali | West Ridge | Mountain | PD | 1995/06 | * | Crowded and rather flat. Rather boring. |
| Alaska | Hunter | West Ridge | Mountain | D | 1995/07 | ** | Varied and steep. |
| Alaska | Prindle | The Cherry | Trad | 5.9 III | 1995/08 | * | FA on licheny rock. |
| Antarctica | Icebergs | Any | Ice | AI4 | 1993/09 | * | Nice pictures but the very worst ice in the world. |
| Arizona | Cochise Stronghold | Welcome to the machine | Sport | 5.10 III | 2003/12 | ** | A good route, all bolted (only take one 2 cam) and easier than its grade. |
| Arizona | Granite Mountain | Dislocation direct | Trad | 5.6 II | 2002/12 | ** | Very nice route for a beginning trad leader. Solo. |
| Arizona | Granite Mountain | Waterstreak Delight | Trad | 5.10 III | 2003/11 | ** | Tiny flakes on 1st two pitches, followed by amazingly airy hand traverse under roof. Dangerous for the second. |
| Arizona | Mnt Lemon | Chimney Rock | Trad | Mostly 5.10 | 2003/11 | ** | Several interesting long pitches on large grain granite. |
| Arizona | The Mace | East face - regular route | Trad | 5.9 III | 2001/12 | ** | Nice tower and impressive step to reach the summit. |
| Briançon | Local cliffs | Various | Trad/Sport | Various | 2004 | * | Lots of stuff, good for local climbing, almost all season. |
| Briançon | Meije | Epinards Hallucinogènes | Trad/Sport | 6b ED- | 1996 | *** | High altitude, sustained climbing and long route. |
| Briançon | Tête d'Aval de Montbrison | Voie Kelle | Trad/Sport | 7a | 1991 | ** | A friend's route, a bit uneven. |
| Briançon | Écrins - Pic sans nom | Aurore Nucléaire | Trad | ED | 2004 | * | Great settings, not very sustained, dangerous start and lot of loose rock for the rappel. |
| Briançon | Écrins - Sagnette | Soleil glacial | Sport | TD | 2004 | *** | Excellent sustained multipitch climbing with short approach. |
| Briançon | Écrins - Sialouze | Attaque à main armée | Trad/Sport | ED | 2004 | ** | Great rock, great view, great route but long approach and still crowded. |
| Briançon | Ailefroide - Palavar | La voie des maitres | Trad/Sport | ED | 2004 | ** | Nice route with short approach, some very cruxy moves. |
| Briançon | Ailefroide - Palavar | La vie devant soi | Trad/Sport | TD+ | 2004 | ** | Just a few hard moves. |
| Briançon | Ailefroide - Eboulement | Derborence | Sport | ED- | 2004 | ** | A great crack pitch. |
| Briançon | Ailefroide - Riou | La mèche fatale | Sport | ED- | 2004 | ** | Short approach and a couple good moves. |
| Briançon | Cerces - Tour Termier | Marmotta impazzita | Sport | ED | 2004 | ** | Don't remember. |
| Briançon | Cerces - Tête colombe | Encore du Dévers | Sport | ED | 2004 | ** | Very sustained from the start to the end. |
| Briançon | Cerces - Rocher Robert | Spit mugissant | Sport | TD | 2004 | ** | Interesting but not very long. |
| Briançon | Cerces - 3eme tour de Queyrellin | Les dents de Cirielle | Sport | ED | 2004 | ** | Some excellent and very sustained pitches. |
| Briançon | Tenailles de Montbrison | Various | Sport | TD/ED | 2004 | ** | Several excellent and similar routes, most of them well bolted. |
| Calabria | Polino | New routes | Trad | 6a/b II | 1999/07 | * | Some FA on virgin limestone. |
| California | Joshua Tree | Various | Trad | Plenty | 2003/11 | ** | Plenty of nice routes but far from each others, so it's hard to do more than 4~5 pitches per day. |
| California | Lake Tahoe | Eagle Lake Cliff | Trad | 5.10 mostly | 2003/07 | * | Some very nice trad lines in a sport climbing setting. |
| California | Lover's Leap | Hospital Corner | Trad | 5.10a | 2003/07 | * | Nice dihedral. |
| California | Lover's Leap | The Groove | Trad | 5.8 | 2003/07 | * | Nice wake up with the shortest approach possible. |
| California | Lover's Leap | Traveler's buttress | Trad | 5.9 | 2003/07 | * | Nice exposed route. |
| California | Needles | Airy Interlude | Trad | 5.10a II | 2003/10 | ** | Exposed hand traverse. |
| California | Needles | Thin Ice | Trad | 5.10b II | 2003/10 | ** | Beautiful area away from the crowds, Yosemite-like cracks. |
| California | Sugarloaf | Various | Trad | Various | 2003/07 | ** | Some excellent lines but we couldn't do the upper pitches due to excess wind. |
| California | Suicide | Various | Trad | 5.10 | 2003/11 | ** | Great rock, a bit runout. |
| California | Tahquiz | Open Book | Trad | 5.9 | 2003/11 | * | A Royal Robins route, so expect it to be hard for the grade... |
| California | Tuolumne | Fairview Dome - Lucky Streaks | Trad | 5.10d III | 2003/08 | ** | Sustained on smooth knobs, interesting. |
| California | Tuolumne | Fairview Dome - Reguler Route | Trad | 5.9 III | 2003/07 | * | One or two interesting pitches only, too crowded and polished at the base. |
| Chamonix | Argentière | Petit Viking | Mixed | AI3 III | 1991/01 | * | Long approach and still crowded. |
| Chamonix | Dent du Géant | Normal route | Mountain | 4+ D | 1998/08 | ** | Incredibly crowded by totally deficient 'climbers'. |
| Chamonix | Mt Blanc | Pilier Central du Freney | Mountain | 6b ED | 1998/08 | *** | Mythical highest rock route on Mt Blanc, very steep and varied. Quite a testpiece. |
| Colorado | Black Canyon | Scenic Cruise | Trad | 5.10+ V | 2002/09 | *** | Long and incredibly sustained, routes don't come any better than this. |
| Colorado | Boulder - Third Flatiron | Standard East Face | Trad | 5.4 II | 2002/11 | * | Too boring if you can lead above 5.4, too runnout if you cannot. |
| Colorado | Breckenridge | Lincoln Falls | Ice | WI3 | 2002/02 | ** | Lots of possibilities, crowded. |
| Colorado | Climbing | Shelf Road | Sport | Various | 2002/01 | * | Main limestone area in Colorado, plenty of stuff. |
| Colorado | Eldorado Canyon | Green Spur | Trad | 5.9 II | 2001/08 | ** | Not as crowded as the Yellow one. |
| Colorado | Eldorado Canyon | Naked Edge | Trad | 5.11a III | 2003/12 | * | Crowded, way harder than the grade, some dicey pro, all polished and overall I didn't enjoy it. |
| Colorado | Eldorado Canyon | Yellow Spur | Trad | 5.9 III | 2001/08 | ** | Good but crowded. |
| Colorado | Fort Collins | Bouldering | Boulder | Various | 2002/01 | * | Used to be better but most of it is now destroyed or off-limits until they reopen the dams. |
| Colorado | Garden of the Gods | Misc | Sport | Various | 2001/05 | * | Scary soft sandy rock but magical settings. |
| Colorado | Mt Elbert | Normal | Ski | MSA | 2002/04 | * | Late spring slush on the highest summit of Colorado. |
| Colorado | Ouray | Horsetail falls | Ice | WI4 II | 2002/01 | ** | Longer than the Ice Park. |
| Colorado | RMNP - Hallet | Culp-Bossier | Trad | 5.8 III | 2002/01 | ** | Good long route. |
| Colorado | RMNP - Loch Vale | Mixed Feelings | Mixed | M5 | 2000/12 | ** | Single hard pitch with easier stuff nearby. |
| Colorado | RMNP - Longs Peak | Casual Route | Trad | 5.10 IV | 2002/02 | *** | Visible from the entire Front Range and well worth the drooling: steep, intimidating, long, high up, a long way from the parking lot... |
| Colorado | RMNP - Longs Peak | Fields Chimney | Trad | 5.8 | 2002/02 | 0 | Heinous mistake. |
| Colorado | RMNP - Longs Peak | Kiener's | Trad | 5.4 III | 2001/08 | * | From Broadway to the top of Longs Peak. |
| Colorado | RMNP - Longs Peak | Lambs Slide | Mountain | II AI2 | 2002/06 | * | Snow/ice gully that gets you to Broadway, worth doing in good conditions. |
| Colorado | RMNP - Longs Peak | Stetner's Ledges | Trad | 5.7+ II | 2001/08 | ** | Nice way to get to Broadway, watch for rockfalls on the right. |
| Colorado | RMNP - Lumpy Ridge | Mainliner | Trad | 5.9 | 2001/09 | ** | Classic of Sundance. |
| Colorado | RMNP - Lumpy Ridge | Sidetrack | Trad | 5.9 | 2001/09 | ** | Just left and better than Mainliner, more sustained and runout. |
| Colorado | RMNP - Lumpy Ridge | The Nose | Trad | 5.10a | 2002/04 | ** | Interesting. |
| Colorado | RMNP - Lumpy Ridge | Turn Korner | Trad | 5.10a | 2002/10 | ** | Offwidth not as bad as its reputation. |
| Colorado | RMNP - Mt Alice | Central Ramp | Trad | 5.8 III | 2002/07 | ** | Remote good route. |
| Colorado | RMNP - Petit Grépon | West | Trad | 5.9 III | 2002/01 | ** | Crowded. |
| Colorado | RMNP - Spearhead | Syke-Sicle | Trad | 5.9+ III | 2002/01 | ** | Flaky. |
| Colorado | RMNP | All Mixed up | Ice | AI3 M3 | 2002/01 | ** | Easy if good conditions. |
| Colorado | RMNP | Grace Falls | Ice | AI4 | 2002/01 | ** | Nice playground. |
| Colorado | RMNP | West Gully | Ice | AI3 | 2002/01 | ** | Long approach for a short easy climb. |