Climbing in the Apennines

Text and pictures © 2006-2008 Guillaume Dargaud
Last updated on 2008/04/04

"I looked back at the summit of the mountain, which seemed but a cubit high in comparison with the height of human contemplation, were in not too often merged in the corruptions of the earth."    — Petrarch, Italian Poet, on the summit of Mt Ventoux in 1335.

The Apennines are a long range of mountains going throughout Italy, almost reaching the Alps in the northernmost part. Most of the range is little more than high hills, but I have long had a page about Gran Sasso, the highest summit of the Range and great playground for all kind of climbing activities. Here I want to add a few pictures of various other areas in central Italy, not necessary limited to the Apennines themselves. I'll add new pics from my archives as I sift through the stocks.

Gaeta

Left: Down the rappel line common to most of the routes.

Right: The traverse right above the sea leading to most of the classic routes.

Gaeta is far from the mountains, known as a place to visit, enjoy the sea and eat its fresh mozarella cheese. For climbers the preferred destination is usually Sperlonga, a few km farther north, but Gaeta provides a lot more adventure on its sea rappel, its 5-pitch routes and its rusty pitons. Located halfway between Rome and Naples, if offers good winter climbing but is too hot in summer.

Left: Old rusty pitons at a belay.

First time I went to Gaeta I had precious little info. With Vincent who was coming down from Paris for a few days to discover Italy we climbed the super classic Croce del Sud and then, having some time to left, we decided to do another route in a different area, not knowing that it was an area now closed to climbing. Looking from above we could see a line of pitons coming up. We do a first rappel to an old belay and then right by the sea. I start the first pitch only to find a rusty old pitons. On the Croce del Sud they had nice stainless steel bolts... Then another one, with a long line of rust coloring the rock below. When I get to a pumpy overhang, the piton is even uglier. I decide to test it and yank the quickdraw. The piton just snaps off... I finished the 5.10 pitch shaking like a leaf, already imagining a fall 30 meters into the cold water below.

Right: Jenny leading the Croce del Sud, most classic route of Gaeta.

Indeed some people have had to retreat from the cliff by swiming to the nearby beach or by hitching a ride on a fisherman's boat. The rock is a sharp limestone, with routes placed close together, so routefinding mistakes are common.

Left: Upper part of the supper classic Croce del Sud (5.10).

Right: Climbers on Spiderman.

Backcountry skiing in central Italy

Left: Tonino Palermi reaching the summit of the Macera di Morte on the Monti della Laga just north of Gran Sasso.

Right: Coming down Pizzo di Cevo in the spring, a classic peak in the Monti della Laga.

Left: South of Gran Sasso, the Maiella has some excellent couloirs.

Right: A frozen cross on the summit of Mt Velino, one of the quickest summit to do from Rome.

Rock climbing in central Italy

Left: Capri island is a major touristic destination, and it also offers a bit of climbing, like on those two 'faraglione'.

Right: Jenny climbing the Faraglione of Capri.

Left: The wilder Monti Sibilini have more difficult access, many ancient legends about them and some seldom done rock and ice climbing. Here Enrico Bernieri traversing a long ledge to reach a route.

Right: Sport climbing at Ripamaiala.

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