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Climbing near Die, France

Text and pictures © 2007-2008 Guillaume Dargaud
Last updated on 2007/10/05

"I get stronger when I shake."    — John Yablonski.
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Archiane


[20070609-110453_Archiane.jpg] On our way to find an old classic, we see this big finger before turning tail because the route is a complete waterfall.

Left: On our way to find an old classic, we see this big finger before turning tail because the route is a complete waterfall.

The 'Diois', although unpronunciable even in french, is the area around the small city of Die. Noted for its light Champagne-like wine, the area also harbors quite a few long cliffs with routes longer than 300 meters, with a mix of moder bolted routes and older 'rotten piton' classics.


[20070609-122924_Archiane.jpg] Ledge on the first pitch of the route. On our way down a huge mountain ram would jump above our rope at this point.

Right: Ledge on the first pitch of the route. On our way down a huge mountain ram would jump above our rope at this point.

Archiane is part of those areas that everyone has heard of, but few people seem to have climbed. The routes were opened a long time ago, the drive to get there is long, the approaches are long, hard to find, steep and bushy, the rock is not always perfect... but when you drive into the valley you wonder why there aren't as many routes as in the Verdon: the potential is astounding.


[20070609-133627_ArchianeVPano_.jpg] Archine has kilometers of cliffs but few actual routes due to the lengthy approaches and less than ideal rock.

Left: Archine has kilometers of cliffs but few actual routes due to the lengthy approaches and less than ideal rock.


[20070609-134140_Archiane.jpg] Traverse at Archiane.

Right: Traverse at Archiane.


[20070609-162622_Archiane.jpg] Jenny leading at Archiane.

Right: Jenny leading at Archiane. Purchase this image on a royalty-free CD archive compilation


[20070609-171822_ArchianePano_.jpg] A view down the valley of Archiane. The summit of the cliff is the very south of the Vercors plateau.

Left: A view down the valley of Archiane. The summit of the cliff is the very south of the Vercors plateau.


[20070610-140539_LaPellePano_.jpg] The Pelle is only one part of the long cliff of the Trois Becs, but it's where most of the climbing is being done. I had a 15 year old vendetta to take on that cliff after we almost froze to death during a november ascent where my rope got cut off by a flint.

[20070610-114613_LaPelle.jpg] Jenny on the strange rock of the Pelle face at the Trois Becs, south of Die. The rock is a very low density limestone which sounds continuously hollow, but the climbing itself is done on crimpy and very hard flints sticking out of the face. It takes some getting used to.

Paroi de la Pelle aux Trois Becs

Left: The Pelle is only one part of the long cliff of the Trois Becs, but it's where most of the climbing is being done. I had a 15 year old vendetta to take on that cliff after we almost froze to death during a november ascent where my rope got cut off by a flint.

Right: Jenny on the strange rock of the Pelle face at the Trois Becs, south of Die. The rock is a very low density limestone which sounds continuously hollow, but the climbing itself is done on crimpy and very hard flints sticking out of the face. It takes some getting used to.


[20070610-125000_LaPelle.jpg] Jenny on the next to last pitch, an overhanging crack with big but somewhat loose blocks.

Right: Jenny on the next to last pitch, an overhanging crack with big but somewhat loose blocks.


[20070610-133516_LaPellePano_.jpg] Summit of the Trois Becs, looking the opposite way from the cliff into a strange geologic circle.

Above: Summit of the Trois Becs, looking the opposite way from the cliff into a strange geologic circle.


[20070722-132136_TroisBecs.jpg] Agostino on a steep lead up the 'Ladybug pillar'.

[20070722-151809_PillierCoccinellesVPano_.jpg] Jenny and Agostino upon reaching the summit of the Ladybug pillar (pillier des coccinelles). The true summit is on the left.

Left: Agostino on a steep lead up the 'Ladybug pillar'. Image available as a free wallpaper


[20070722-145114_TroisBecs.jpg] Jenny in a sideways dihedral.

Left: Jenny in a sideways dihedral.

Right: Jenny and Agostino upon reaching the summit of the Ladybug pillar (pillier des coccinelles). The true summit is on the left.

Benevisse


[20070721-114620_Benevisse.jpg] The Benevisse needles. Major sandbags if you want my opinion. Either that or we were in shit shape on that day. But when I have to aid a 6c on skyhook and Lowe Ball for 30 meters, I'm pretty sure there's something wrong.

Left: The Benevisse needles. Major sandbags if you want my opinion. Either that or we were in shit shape on that day. But when I have to aid a 6c on skyhook and Lowe Ball for 30 meters, I'm pretty sure there's something wrong.


[20070721-152144_Benevisse.jpg] Jenny looking of non-existant holds on the Benevisse Needle.

Left: Jenny looking of non-existant holds on the Benevisse Needle.

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