Backcountry-skiing in the Vercors

Text and pictures © 2007-2012 Guillaume Dargaud
Last updated on 2012/02/12

"I think my favorite sport in the Olympics is the one in which you make your way through the snow, you stop, you shoot a gun, and then you continue on. In most of the world, it is known as the biathlon, except in New York City, where it is known as winter."    — Michael Ventre, L.A. Daily News.

Just above Grenoble

Right: The eastern side of the Vercors as seen from the Moucherotte, quite visible are the Mt Aiguille and the Grand Veymont.

Left: Brocken spectrum seen from Peak St Michel, right below Mt Blanc and the northern tip of the Belledonne range.

Right: Mirage disturbing the atmosphere of the Gresivaudan valley, in the direction of Mt Blanc.

Above: Panorama of the first december snows on the Moucherotte, the northernmost summit of Vercors located just above Grenoble (visible right between the clouds). Belledonne covers the left of the horizon, then the Taillefer and farther out if the Devoluy.

Left: The east face of the Vercors seen from the summit of Peak St Michel.

Right: Cross on the summit of Peak St Michel.

Left: Smoky Grenoble visible from Peak St Michel.

Right: Arc col and St Michel Peak right above smoky Grenoble. It's so close, no wonder I can ski it and be at work at 9 !

Left: Jenny on the trail to the Moucherotte, the parking lot in in the fog, be we are hopeful for the summit..

Right: Lots of fresh snow on that day.

Right: The sun shows as we pass the cliff.

Left: The hut below the summit and the clouds covering the Vercors plateau.

Above: Panorama of the Belledonne range from the summit of the Moucherotte. Mt blanc is on the left, far back.

Left: Jenny gearing up for the descent with teh Chartreuse and Mt Blanc in the back.

Right: Grenoble in the valley below, stuck between the ranges of Vercors, Chartreuse and belledonne.

Grand Veymont

Left: East face of Grand Veymont, highest summit of Vercors at 2341m.

Right: Skiiing down the wind-swept slopes of Grand Veymont, almost always exposed to the rocks by the northern winds.

Left: Grand Veymont slope above the Vercors high plateau.

Right: Northern part of the Vercors visible during the descent of the Grand Veymont.

Left: Lone skier on top of one of the secondary summits of Grand Veymont.

Right: Powder snow on the descent of the Agnellerie.

Draye des Communaux

Right: Fountain of the Sornin.

Left: Shadowy trees near the summit.

So after several weeks working non-stop on our new appartment, I decide to take a break on a cold sunday after a large snowfall. I'd seen on the map a narrow gully that looked skiable and found very partial information on how to do it by foot, and none at all about skiing it. I start in early afternoon, but the days are so short in January...

Left: Trying to find my way down, jumping multiple small cliffs.

Right: The lights of Grenoble as night settles in and I still haven't found the way down...

To make a long story short, I spend several hours in a very think forrest, jumping down small cliffs, then ending on top of a huge 200m cliff, without ever finding the very narrow gully. Then night falls. And I have to climb the rock to get back to the plateau. Then my skins stop sticking due to the cold and I have to walk in pelvis-deep snow to get back to the car at 22:30... I must have passed no farther than 10 meters from the gully without seeing it... Next time maybe.

Right: Another failure; the Gerbier Couloir: too much rock, not enough snow...

Left: View on Lans-en-Vercors and Peak St Michel from the Jaume cross in Winter.

Variations above Lans

Left: Alone on the slopes of Lans.

Right: Skiing on the slopes of Lans after an out of season snowfall.

Right: The ski slope of Lans, without the crowds.

Left: Going up the Moucherotte.

Right: Pine forest in winter.

Left: The slopes of Lans after work, with the Moucherotte in the background.

Right: Sunset on the slopes of Lans.

Left: Peak St Michel and the Devoluy seen from the summit of the Lans slopes.

Right: Dry climbing at a the special site of L'Abatoir, in Meaudre. Here on the rightmost route, one of the easiest (sic!)